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GM Truck BRASS Seat FWD/AFT Adjustment Gear Set

0.50 LBS

Product Description

** CLICK HERE for DIY Text **

** CLICK HERE for DIY Youtube Video ** is PROUD to release this LIFETIME WARRANTIED SOLID BRASS GEAR SET for 2007-2014 GM truck power seat forward/aft adjustment mechanisms !  This set includes 2 helical cut solid brass main gears which is made in 2 sections AND steel seat frame repair bushings.  These gears exactly match the GM plastic versions but are many times stronger so they will not chip, strip, or break.  This is a GREAT WAY to save money AND make your GM truck seat fwd/aft adjustment mechanism BULLETPROOF!  We all know that GM will not sell these gears - instead, they make you buy an entire new power seat unit (with more plastic gears that will also soon break or strip).  Don't waste money on more plastic gears, or incomplete gear sets.  The gear set includes EVERYTHING that wears out and replaces them with SOLID BRASS GEARS - LIFETIME WARRANTIED !

This product is sold as a set of 2 brass helical gears, 2 brass gear journal bearings, and 2 steel frame repair bushings.  Enough to fully repair the fwd/aft gears on 1 seat.  Driver and passenger seats both use the same gears. 

This product fits all 2007-2014 GM Trucks with Power Seats, Including Escalade, Silverado, Avalanche, Tahoe, Suburban, Sierra, Yukon, and Denali, and likely many others.  The part numbers for the seat tracks which these gears fit into are : 22-80-44-17 (228044170, 22-80-44-18 (22804418), 22-80-44-19 (22804419), 22-80-44-20 (22804420), 20-77-91-09 (20779109), 20-77-91-10 (20779110) as well as many others.  This part number list will continually grow !


** Installation Instructions (and we will be making a pdf with pictures soon too -- if you are handy with the camera let us know, we can offer free parts for helping us make a good DIY ! ) ** 

1. Access bottom of seat structure.  This is easiest by removing power seat entirely from vehicle.  Turn seat upside down and remove the bottom seat cushion.  

2. Locate the front main cross member which the seat drive units are connected to.  You will need to grind the rivet heads on either end of this bar such that you can slide it out of the seat structure.  Do not cut into the seat bar itself, just remove the rivet head.

3. Oversize the hole to 1/2" which the seat frame bar was riveted into.  This will fit the steel repair bushings.  You can remove any sharp burrs and apply some black primer to the cut areas to protect the seat structure from corrosion.

4. Slide off the seat fwd/aft gear boxes.  There are retaining rings at the front and back of each gear box.  Use a thin flat head screw driver to remove the retaining rings.  The gear box will then open up, revealing a plastic drive spur gear and worm gear.  Using a cutter such as a dremel tool, remove the spur gear which is over-molded onto the long spiral drive shaft.  Its OK to cut slightly into the underlying steel long spiral shaft.  Completely remove the plastic spur gear and clean off any burrs or sharp edges using sand paper.  You will re-use the OEM worm gear as this gear does not typically fail.

5. Slide the supplied brass bushing with hat section 1st onto the long spiral shaft at the far end.  Slide the brass spur gear onto the shaft from the short end.  Test fit and make sure they sit concentric to the long spiral shaft (within reason, we're not needing .001 inch concentricity here as the gears dont spin very fast).

6. Use a 24 hour epoxy, such as JB 24 hour weld (NOT the 5 Min version) to bond both halves of the brass gear onto the main spiral shaft.  Allow to cure for 24 hours.  Make sure you wipe off any excess epoxy from gear teeth as it will dry very hard.  

7. Install long spiral shaft into gearbox and place retaining rings on front and back sides.  

8. Reinstall all components onto the front frame bar as they were removed and use the steel repair bushings with hat side facing out to locate the previously cut frame rail.  Use epoxy such as 24 hour WB Weld (not the 5 minute version) to bond the circular frame rail section to the inner diameter of the steel repair bushing.  Allow to fully cure.  If you have access to welding equipment you could also weld the frame bar to the steel bushing but make sure it can rotate as its needed for the seat height mechanism.

9. Reinstall the seat cushion and seat into vehicle.     

Product Reviews

  1. GM junk plastic part replaced with quality material 5 Star Review

    Posted by on 18th Oct 2021

    100% better than the GM OEM part! The brass will likely outlast the vehicle and the website gives you the link to the "how to" video that was exactly what had to be done to install the part!

    -- Response --

    Thanks for review. Yes these repair the seat height and please also note now we have the seat fwd/back gears too. Its not a bad idea to just replace all the plastic gears in these power seats at the same time.

  2. Fixed my seat and saved me hundreds of dollars 5 Star Review

    Posted by on 11th Oct 2021

    This is a nice kit to replace the gears in the FWD/AFT motion drive. I installed it on a 2007 Escalade drivers seat. I found the video and ordered the kit. I watched the video again when the kit arrived. The video did not prepare me for the job thou, there’s more steps required than the video shows, be sure to read the written directions. I’m an Aircraft Mechanic so it made more sense to me to use a drill bit and drill the ends of the “rivets” off the seat shaft, instead of trying to get a grinder on them. There are a couple things I thought could be improved. The ID of the gears is significantly bigger than the shafts they’re glued on, having a tighter fit at one of the radial locations would really help line things up while the glue dried. As hard as I tried, one of my gears ended up a little off. Second, the parts are thrown loose into a bag and that bag is thrown into a second bag and mailed to you. This works fine but I thought having some sort of packing would’ve been nice. Printed instructions would be nice to find in the package too.

    -- Response --

    Thanks Mike we appreciate the honest review. I wanted to make the gear bore a bit tighter on shaft but there is variance in shaft diameter so that would result in some people having to grind down shafts to fit the gears. I also want some space for the 24 hour epoxy to layer in there. This creates a very tight bond, but yes it does need to be reasonably centered.

    Glad you got it working and now can move the seats fwd/back without spending big money on a costly GM base which would come with - you guessed it - more plastic gears to break.

  3. Great idea, well executed and documented 5 Star Review

    Posted by on 3rd Oct 2021

    Great product, if I can do it, anyone can! But the install was still much harder than I expected and much harder than the video suggested. Hardest part for me was grinding off the rivets to free up the cross member which was not depicted at all in the vide. The instructions as quoted above state "Locate the front main cross member which the seat drive units are connected to. You will need to grind the rivet heads on either end of this bar such that you can slide it out of the seat structure. Do not cut into the seat bar itself, just remove the rivet head."

    I would say instead "Use a cutting wheel on a dremmel to cut through the terminal rivets and the bar itself so that the end of the bar is flush with the seat structure into which it sits". If the bar isn't flush with the seat structure it's impossible to easily slide it out. Also attempting to grind down the heads will take far too long - much better to just cut through them. I hope this helps someone.

    Oh, also, if you try and drive the car with a seat out, it will say "Service air bag" - that error goes away when you replace the seat.

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